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White balance is highly subjective; discussing it can be quite unproductive. It's like making bread: you begin with flour. For the camera, start with AWB (auto white balance) as your baseline. When editing photos post-shoot, you can then determine if the ambiance or mood requires a warmer or cooler tone by using the temperature slider in Adobe Camera RAW or various controls in Photoshop to adjust the color balance. However, when photographing commercial products, accurate white balance and color reproduction are crucial for product realism.

I watched a video from a professional photographer (Sean Tucker) and his basic advice was to leave the white balance on about 5550 as this reflects what the eye is seeing rather than WB trying to change from what you are seeing. I have found this works in the main.

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Thanks for this Ben. Just beginning to explore the need for this, so a big help to have it all explained and a nudge to get on and investigate! As a member of the perpetually bewildered society, I'm sure that using this knowledge in conjunction with your camera check list will help by reminding me to go through a regular camera ready routine so as to prevent too much bewilderment from unexpected results from forgotten previous settings! Thanks too for this week's On3Legs email on the topic of negative space. Really inspiring and handy tips!

Technically sensors are not sensitive to light (unlike film). As you probably know as you increase the ISO, before the file is saved, the camera computer (software?) amplifies the incoming signal, ie it brightens the image then the image is saved. It's the signal amplification that causes grain.

Well Ben you are probably fed up with the same old comment from me every week, i.e. "great video tips, helped enormously" but the truth is, they are great. I find them really easy to understand, not only in principle but in practice too, of ISO's place in the golden triangle of exposure. It was timely for both me and my husband this week, when it cropped up for us both, out and about on an overcast day. We hadn't realised how bright it still was with no sunlight, and a lesson learned to keep ISO low in such conditions. Certainly going to have a go at your experiment to enhance knowledge too. Thank you so much!

Dude, it’s Iso NOT, I-S-O! Drives me nuts!! 🤣👍 There’s no such thing as I-S-O. Regards, Dazza. 🇬🇧

perfect explanation of ISO, can be a confusing topic for newbies to grasp.

Another really helpful video Ben. What I'm loving is that your videos are 'short burst' so it's not too much to absorb in one hit. No flannel or fluff, just good clear knowledge and instruction. And easy to locate and replay whenever you are out and about anywhere there is internet reception, if you need to check. No-one wants to sit under a tree for an hour recapping when you could be snapping! Also thanks for the camera checklist. We're having one of our 4 sunny days per year in UK today, so I'm off out to start practising my shutter speeds! Thanks so much!

Thanks Ben been reading all your weekly tips which have been super helpful on my trip to Central Australia, Hope to get to do one of your hands on courses in the future. Cheers.

Thanks so much for your clear explanation. As an old (76) newbie photographer I easily get intimidated by explanations, especially as this is compounded by my having to use older second hand equipment. But I'm a firm believer that you 'can teach an old dog new tricks' and 'it's never too late to learn something new' and you've helped me feel that that I really can do this!

Great explanation and many thanks for that, but still not understand what distance between you and the subject will do. Perhaps you can explain that in the next video.

Great video. I shoot real estate and need the HDR setup and you made me choose this camera. Thanks for the in-depth straight forward information on how to use the bracketing feature. In fact i saved the link.

Brilliant video. I learnt a lot. Thank you

Hi Ben, This is Huet from the UK. Great video; thank you. Could you please tell me what remote shutter release you are using?

Me same cc and battery leeks but not working with new battery batteries cheers from Perth 🏆👌

Great Video Thanks For Sharing It

Really nice video, Ben. Are there any free HDR software programs if you won't be doing a lot of HDR images? I just got my D850 and mostly into landscapes and wildlife, but will certainly get some images that require HDR, but not sure I'd get enough to get lightroom. I'm currently using the free software from Nikon, the NX Studio and I can't see on there where it could do HDR image combining. Thanks

Good, but you need to talk a bit slower.

Great lesson, thanks. But I still do not understand how did you managed to make series of photos with one touch. I tried tried to repeat but unsuccessfully.

Have been testing a lot of remote for the camera and flashes over the years and totally agree with your comments. I never tested RFN4s, so I will order one today. Thank you for your information.

I’ve owned the Wacom Pro for about 10 years but now using it with my Mac Pro, the only thing you never did was to give any direction on how to set short cuts up, luckily I know how but you need to be much more clear

What is the ball head on the tripod

Well i learnt about your camera freezing up and that there was no sun rise... but absolutely nothing about focus bracketing lol

Nice timely video for me, thank you! I've been kicking around the idea of the 14-24mm or the 16-35mm lens. The issue I was thinking about is I didn't want to buy the filter kit for the 14-24mm lens.

Hi Ben. Hope you’re doing well today.

Thank you Ben 👍

What tripod are you using? Could you also give a link for the lens filter mount

Great video. Thank you! Do you know if auto focus works if the camera has been setup to operate with Back Button Focus?

I would love to be part of it. The time difference is the problem. Cheers Ben

This was a great video explaining something we all need a refresher on. Thank you. Nice shot as well.

Hi , I work pro , always capturing in Raw, and got as well a GFX 50S , I would appreciate very much if you could tell me what´s best in your opinion about setting the dynamic range in Auto , or DR100, or DR200. Thanks in advance .

Very helpful, thanks.

Just want to clarify that you’re explaining bracketing to create an HDR picture. The D850 has an actual HDR setting that takes 2 photos and merges them into a single HDR photo in-camera. With this setting, bracketing HDR and in-house HDR are two separate processes with the D850 In the Photo Shooting Menu there is an HDR setting that can be activated so post editing with bracketed shots is not required. The drawback is that in-camera HDR setting requires photo quality to be set at jpeg. Deal breaker for most but it is a much easier process with no post merging required.

Thanks for the great explanation of setting up the keys. I have been avoiding it because I need to sit down and figure out what shortcut keys I use, and I need to learn some new ones.

I know it’s a lot of work doing the show but I do miss them. Hope all is well there. I’m doing well here in Arizona. Cheers

I also have D850- 14-24

Charleston SC

Great video and great remote. One caveat., The half press focus does not work with back button focus activated.

Some say could be made by contax with Nikon badge.....

I have a D700 with over 461k and still going very strong! D850is an amazing DLSR looking forward in getting one soon! Thanks for sharing!!!

I could not agree with you more , the camera is a beast. It hasn't let me down so I applaud it. Exceptional images even in jpegs. So I'll keep it. Love the tiff mode as well. Thanks great video about a great image maker.

I spent roughly 30 years of my professional life working with dual screens. Now, the very reason I went into photography is all about light and optics and I am not trading an optical viewfinder for an an electronic viewfinder. In spite of the exposure marvels (Zebras) and autofocus tracking tricks of mirrorless cameras, you are adding another filtering layer (WB) when using an EVF. I am sticking to my D850 and long prime lenses to capture the optical complexities of light. To me, it enhances the feeling of interconnectedness I have with our natural environment. I admire the advances in microelectronics in the photosites of camera bodies to capture useful photons in low light conditions but I want my eyes to be in direct contact with the complexities of light. Since everyone is rushing to buy mirrorless, I might even be able to buy the low light beast, the Nikon D6, at some stage.

Also Ben do you have a favorite type of metering that you use on the D850 for landscape shots, center, matrix, etc??? Thanks I frequently have a difficult time nailing the exposure between the sky and ground. Thanks again.

Ben this is an excellent video, thanks for this! As a fellow D850 shooter I found this most applicable. I know the D850 has a HDR mode but I believe that you can only take the images in Jpeg using that feature? I assume by bracketing all the shots in the series can be shot in RAW and then HDR “merged” in Lightroom like you said. Where do I click to find the select shots and then merge icon? Thanks.

Ugh. Ugh. Ugh. You chose to keep your face in camera for the entire video and didn't bother to actually show the RFN4 (which you usually put OUT OF THE CAMERA FRAME, at the bottom of your video). I hadn't used mine for nearly ten years and just needed to know how to open the battery door again. I found this much better video that actually focuses on this device and shows the details of how its parts work, including opening the battery door: ruclips.net/video/fpMxr1mr6cE/видео.html

The 16 being a 4.0 and a G lens, with newer design and higher contrast looks sharper, naturally. Thanks for the comparision